Saturday, July 20, 2019

A complete guide for Bako National Park.

When we decided to make a trip to Kuching for the first time, the one thing we were sure about was to visit Sarawak’s oldest national park, Bako National Park.

We did not do much research prior to our trip and learnt a lot about the trip along the way. And I thought why not just put it up. Information is wealth after all :-)

beautiful silver leaf monkeys greeting at the entrance
beautiful silver leaf monkeys greeting at the entrance


From Kuching to Bako Terminal.

A night before our trip to Bako National trip we stayed in Basaga Holiday Residency in Kuching. We figured out a couple of ways to get to Bako National Park, which is located, approximately 25 KM apart.
1) By Grab
The easiest and comfortable but the most expensive. Costs around RM45.
2) By Bus
Least expensive and could consume a bit of your time. Take the Petra Jaya bus #6 from Kuching bus station to Bako Village. Costs RM3.
We opted for Grab. Not the cheapest way, but it did help us to make the journey much easier. We were dropped at the Bako Village. We just had to walk to counter that sells the boat tickets that will take us to the national park.

To Bako National Park.

By Boat
The only mode to go to Bako National Park. The costs differ if you wish to cater boat to your convenience. We opted for the shared boat trip. Do note that the boat only leaves once there are more than 5 passengers. If you are going solo or smaller group and wish to go on the shared boat, it is advisable to come early by 8 am, which is considered the peak hour for visitors to enter the national park. In that way, you can share the boat with other passengers and save the waiting time.
We only reached the terminal at about 9.15am and we had to wait for about 20 minutes to make up to the number of passengers.
The boat ride is approximately 15 minutes. Enjoy the ride. Look around and try to spot animals and plants. You can even see the beautiful Mount Santubong on your way there.

all you need to know about the boat transfer and its pricing
all you need to know about the boat transfer and its pricing.
 

Entrance fee to the park.

The fees differ for Malaysians and Non-Malaysian. It’s a one-time entrance fee. Which means, regardless of the day trip or overnight trip, the entrance fee is still the same.

RM10 for Malaysian Adult and RM20 for Non Malaysian Adult
RM10 for Malaysian Adult and RM20 for Non Malaysian Adult

Accommodation

When we were deciding on the trip, one thing we were sure about was to stay the night in the park. We wanted to soak in all of what Sarawak’s biggest and oldest national park could offer us.
You can book your accommodation through their official website.
Be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment. Walk-in booking is not encouraged.
There are several options to choose from.
We opted for Forest Lodge type 6.
It is a twin sharing room with attached bathroom/toilet with fan and basic amenities. Remember you are staying in the middle of an old national park, so don’t expect a fancy stay.
Also note, check in to you lodges can only be done after 2 pm. The check-in was easy and we were given one clean towel each at the lobby like counter at the entrance. If you happened to be in the park early and wish to attempt a trail before the check in time like us, you can leave your bags in the designated room at the lobby. However, be mindful of your belongings that you are leaving unattended. The room does not have any surveillance camera to monitor.

Simple twin sharing room at only RM50 per room
Simple twin sharing room at only RM50 per room.
Keep your rooms locked at all times, our primate friends are pretty cheeky! Smart enough to open the doors.

Meals

There is a comfortable café in the park itself which provides indoor and outdoor table seatings. Anticipate our primate friends to visit if you opt to dine at the outdoor tables. They serve breakfast, lunch, teatime, and dinner. However, it is all self-paid. It doesn’t come in a package or whatsoever. In my opinion, the food and drinks are fairly priced considering its location and the mode of the goods transfer. The only way to bring the goods into the park is by a boat.
If you are on a budget, the one thing you can do is to stock up on enough water for yourself. One 1.5L of mineral water bottle costs RM4 in the park's cafe.
The food is clean and tastes good enough to give a decent meal experience.
Each meal costs us around RM7-10, depending on what we chose from the mini buffet-style presentation. There were not many vegetarian options. Let alone vegan. So if you are a vegan or vegetarian, you might want to pre-plan your meals ahead.

My lunch, costs me RM6. Exclusive of the drinks.
My lunch, costs me RM6. Exclusive of the drinks.

What to do in Bako

There are a total of 18 trails. All the trails are well marked with colour code. You will be given a simple map of all the trails in Bako National Park with the estimated time needed to complete the trail on an A4 paper for free upon arrival.
Be sure to register before and after trekking on the registration book at the lobby for your safety.Also, always keep track on your trekking time. Try to complete your chosen trail before the sun sets. It gets really dark after the sunset. There are no lamps along the trails.


All trails well explained. Kept this with us throughout our stay. Our guide!


We tried to explore as much possible and I think we managed to see more than we hoped to see.

1)Paku Trail
The first trail we chose is the Paku trail. The trail is beautiful and easy. We spent about 2 hours here. Be sure to look out for the proboscis monkeys on your way. Along the way, you will be seeing mossy forest-like terrain as well. Just pay attention to the trail.
spotted some fiddler crabs on our way to Paku Trail
spotted some fiddler crabs on our way to Paku Trail.

2)Telok Tajor
This is another beautiful and well-paved trail. Here, we encountered many bird species' and can even hear some of them singing away. We are not vivid bird watchers to know the species' we encountered. But we did have a heap of fun time! The clean and cool air, birds flying and singing away and shadowed by the big trees, it was a therapeutic walk. If you are a bird watcher, be sure to attempt this trail.

3)Beach
Don’t ever miss the beautiful beach and the sunset. We spent the evening strolling along the beach admiring the million years old sandstone and limestone rock formations at the beach.

This got me dazed at the beach. Huge sea stone
This got me dazed at the beach. Huge sea stone.
Look upon the trees, you will see proboscis monkeys just chilling on the tree. Watch your head, some of them are cheeky. One of the monkeys threw a mango seed at us for nothing. LOL!
If you have the time, go for a morning beach walk. There is something peaceful about having the whole beach to yourself. We got lucky on that morning, it was just us and the waves and a wild boar! He came for his morning walk too. Fret not, the wild boars around that park are not harmful. Don’t disturb them, and they will do the same for us. We even managed to catch a glimpse of mount Santubong from the beach. Thank god for the fantastic weather.
Dhasa on his morning stroll by the beach.

Spend a good few minutes looking at Mount Santubong view from the beach
Spend a good few minutes looking at Mount Santubong view from the beach.

4)Guided night walk
As excited as we were to go for the night trail, due to bad weather we had to cancel it. I'm sure this would have a worthwhile walk because some animals are nocturnal, and its perfect time to watch them being active in the wild. If you are planning, the trail takes about one hour to complete and it starts at the cafe which is the meeting point. The guided walk costs RM10 per pax and you are required to bring your own torch.

5)Night walk
We went for a short night walk after dinner just to help our digestion after dinner, " the digestion walk". It was not planned. Just randomly looked up at the sky. And we were mesmerized! OMG! BEAUTIFUL! A sky full of stars!!! We love stargazing but we have never seen a sky full of stars like that night. Spent a while looking up. Wished we could just camp there but unfortunately, it's not available. You don’t have to go too far into the forest, we just walked from the cafe to the rooms and a little further. Its safe and well-paved walkway. We went back to our room with such big smiles from the peaceful walk.

6)Teluk Pandan Kecil
The most famous trail of all. There are two ways to get here. One is to trek for about one and a half hour to get there and it is free of charge. Another option is to take a boat to get there which costs a little extra.
We chose the latter and will tell you why we chose that instead of trekking the whole way up.
About 25 minutes boat ride later, we reached the beautiful pristine beach that leads the way up to Teluk Pandan Kecil viewpoint.
It only takes about 5 minutes to hike up. Quick and relatively easy trail.
The view at the top is beyond beautiful! Watch the rock formation from the top. It's unique. We even managed to drone from up there.
On our way down, we saw two tiny mountain crabs racing away. Watch your steps on your way down because the mosses on the stone can be quite the slippery.




7)Bako signature sea stack
You can only go close to the sea stack by boat. This is the sole reason why we decided to rent the boat. Since Teluk Pandan Kecil is not too far away from the sea stack and we were in a rush of time, we decided to take the quicker way to get there instead of trekking for 1.5 hours. The sea stack is located in the middle of the sea on the way to the Teluk Pandan Kecil.
Along the way, the boatman showed us many stone stacks that formed to look a lot like animals and there is one that looks just like the Sphinx in Egypt.

The return trip back to the terminal.

Do note that the boat ticket purchased to enter into Bako is inclusive of a round trip. You don't have to purchase separately. However, the boat only leaves from the Bako National park around 2 pm to 3 pm.
We decided to customize our trip to suit our itinerary.
We did the Bako signature sea stack tour right before leaving Bako. We took our backpacks along with us. We were charged a total of RM100 for the two of us to make a trip to the Teluk Pandan Kecil, Bako signature sea stack and also a trip to the Bako village where the Bako terminal is located. It is a pretty good deal, considering that we got to save the time and also we managed to cover all that we wanted to see at the convenience of our own time. You know how the saying goes "kill two birds with one stone", by doing this boat trip we killed many birds with one stone. It's just a saying, we don't kill birds. Jokes aside. If you have immense interest in plants and the swarms like myself, you will enjoy the boat ride. It was a good ride back to the terminal.
There are a lot more to do in Bako National Park. With just a night, I think we managed to get a decent amount of activities covered.

Safety.

No matter where we are, always keep track of our surroundings and whereabouts.
We are in the million years old habitat of the animals there, be respectful. Don't bother them too much.
Bring enough cash to sustain throughout your stay. There are no ATM in the park.
The beach, as beautiful as it is, unfortunately, there are sandflies all over. We got bitten everywhere and were scratching badly. Pack your antihistamines and soothing lotion.
Bring mosquito repellent, sunblock, plasters and the necessary first aids in case emergency.
Bring enough water during your hiking/trekking.
Do not swim in the sea. There are sea crocodiles there. Huge famished ones. Not sure how famished though.

Additional information.

Once you are at the village, try the Bako Seafood restaurant. Too good to miss that out! Delicious and very affordable. Loved the homemade tofu. Also try the three layer pandan tea!!
https://dhashachandran.blogspot.com/2019/07/food-hunting-in-kuching-sarawak.html

Lastly, enjoy your stay in Sarawak's oldest and biggest national park. It left us in awe!




Monday, July 1, 2019

Food Hunting In Kuching, Sarawak

Food hunting in Kuching, Sarawak. The cat city! meowww!

Prior to my first visit to Kuching, I PRESUMED that Kuching must be a boring place with nothing much to food hunt. Somebody, please whack me for this ignorance!



After making a trip there, OH BOY! How wrong was I?? This place is food heaven!! Food everywhere. Kuching, a city so rich in its culture and history. AND FOOD!
I had very limited time in the city itself, so I tried hunting as much as I could.


Oriental Park Kolo Mee
What's Sarawak without its Kolo Mee? There are many famous stalls/restaurants selling Kolo Mee. We chose to have ours at Oriental Park. Soft homemade noodles served with pork lard and sliced pork. It was too good! It's served with chili soaked in vinegar. It added a perfect twist to the mee.  Didn’t have the time to try at other places, but this one left me wanting more.

Kuching famous food


Hiap Yiak Butter Coffee
A little humble old school coffee shop on Kai Joo Lane. It's called the Hiap Yiak coffee shop. It doesn’t have any fancy board or whatsoever. You can walk to this place after having from oriental park kolo mee. Managed by an old Chinese couple, this place is famous for its butter coffee and simple roti kahwin with half boiled eggs.  At only RM2, you can get yourself a hot cup of delicious butter coffee that tastes much better than any hipster cafes!

kai joo lane Kuching



Aladin chicken rice
This place is famous for its chicken rice among the locals. I went there the day I landed in Kuching, it was closed. I went there a day later, and they were sold out. Someday I shall give it a try. But judging from the smell and the crowd, I bet it must be special. It was also recommended by the receptionist of the hotel I stayed in.

Kueh Chap, Lau Ya Keng
This place, well known for their kueh chap. Pork offals, lean meat, eggs, and tofu in herbal soup. It was a perfect meal to have it after a rainy evening that day. We also ordered one pork roll, which crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.  They are open for both lunch and dinner.
You can also try the Lau Ya Keng Pork Satay. We went hunting for this for two days in a row, but the stall was closed. Maybe the next time around.

Lau Ya Keng


Lepau Restaurant
Indigenous food anyone?? Authentic Kayan/Dayak cuisine!  We ordered ayam pansuh, prawns umami,  fiona fish, brinjal asam with belacan and wrapped rice. It costs us around RM70.  There’s absolutely nothing to complain about this place. Good service, great ambiance and fantastic food. The one place you should not miss whilst you are in Kuching.

Ummai, Ayam Pansuh, Ikan Fiona



Blackbean Coffee Shop
I personally texted a food blogger on Instagram beforehand to ask for her best recommendations.  One of the many places she recommended was this. It’s a small coffee shop with limited chairs and tables. What was so special about this place you may ask? It is definitely the coffee beans. Freshly ground and prepared coffee served with brown sugar.  And what's even better was that they have locally grown Liberica coffee beans. We even bought some back home at RM27 for 200gm.

Sarawak Grown Coffee Bean

I loved the cookie that was served with the coffee. Had to buy back some. Bought two packs of it. Chocolate and peanut flavored cookies, at RM 2.50 each.

chocolate biscuits



Ah Yong ABC
This place is definitely a treat for the hot tropical weather.  ABC stands for Ais Batu Campur. It’s a mixture of shaved ice with corn, wheatgrass jelly, nuts with coconut milk and some melted brown sugar. I really liked this ABC. Unlike many other places, it was not too sweet with a generous amount of ingredients at only RM2.50.  This tiny stall at the roadside is not too hard to locate. I walked to this place from Lau Ya Keng restaurant.

Ais Batu Campur, must try in Kuching


The Fig Tree Restaurant.
It was just a random restaurant I went into that I do not regret. This is a vegetarian & vegan restaurant. A cute little restaurant with earthy decoration. I tried their pineapple fried rice. To be very honest, it’s the BEST pineapple fried rice I had in my life so far. At only RM7.50, the generous portion of fried rice came with tempeh, pine nuts, tofu, and so many other ingredients. I'm not a vegetarian but I loved this place. There are a wide variety of choices to choose from here.

the fig tree, kuching


Aiskrim Gula Apong, Open Air Market
We asked our grab driver to drop us at the open air market, hoping that we could get something for our late dinner. But the only stall that was opened at that time was this place. We ordered one for the fun of it only to find out later, that it's famous! Made of flavored ice cream with gooey melted palm sugar. Had mine with corn flakes toppings. Even though it was a tad bit sweet for my liking, I still enjoyed the simple dessert.

kuching




Oh Chien, Topshot 
When we say oh chien, you will only remember the oyster scrambled with eggs. But Sarawak’s oh chien is nothing like that. It’s a huge crispy and crunchy layer, in the shape of the huge wok that was used to fry and it has big juicy pieces of oysters in it. Its savored with some soy sauce.  It was a bit too oily for me, but it was good! Priced at RM20 for each, can be shared with 2 people or more for sure.

Topspot, Kuching

Topspot is on the 6th floor of the UTC building and it has many food stalls selling fresh seafood. A tad bit touristy, but we still had our dinner here. We also ordered steam fish, mixed vegetables and rice to go with it. Nothing much to shout about. Just another tourist dinner spot.

hotspot food court, kuching


Sugar cane and coconut water, Song Kheng Hai Food Centre.
A drink to cool down after roaming around in the crazy hot weather.  The stall is being operated for generations, even before the Malaysian Independence. They use the short sugar cane, which tastes much sweeter and mixes it with the coconut water and flesh.  It was a refreshing drink and nothing more. If you happened to be here, try the Keuh Teow in tomato gravy at the other stall nearby. It was closed when we were there. So I can't say much about it.

Kuching



Laksa Sarawak, Choon Hui Café
The most famous spot for laksa which was recommended by Anthony Bourdin. Did it live up to the hype? YES!! It was so different from any other laksa I had in my life. It is nothing like the laksa in peninsular Malaysia. A generous portion of laksa consisted of rice noodles, bean sprouts,  chicken strips, juicy prawns and egg in spicy laksa broth. I added in the chili paste and lime, the taste was perfect!  Did I mention that even their chicken strips were flavourful??

Choon Hui Cafe, Kuching


If you happened to pay a visit here, try their Popiah as well. It is one of the best popiahs I've had in my life. Wished I had more space in my tummy to try the porridge as well. It looked and smelled great!

Choon Hui Cafe


Bako Seafood Restaurant
We went here right after our stay at Bako National Park. It is a seafood restaurant. The food is really nice and cheap! We ordered steamed prawns, Homemade signature fish tofu, midin vegetable, rice and two drinks at RM43. Friendly service and great food. Totally recommended.

midin, prawns, tauhu


EscoBar
If you happened to be in Santubong, and looking for some western meal, this is it! The food served in great portion and taste wise, it was the best I have had in awhile now. We had our dinner here during our stay at The Culvert. We ordered grilled salmon and grilled chicken, both lived up to the expectations! The meals here are not cheap, but considering the huge portion, I can say it's justified.

santubong, kuching



Another place that I really wanted to but I missed out was the Drunk Monkey Old Street Bar at the Carpenter Street. We passed the street whilst finding for dinner. It looked so calm and beautiful. I don’t mind having a drink or two here. The next time, I shall.


I had many more places in mind that I really wished to try, but with such limited time and space in my tummy, this is all I could do in my trip. Till the next time, Kuching! 

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